How to Stretch Woven Wire Fence: Step-by-Step Guide (Even Solo)

Stretching woven wire correctly is the single biggest factor in whether a fence stays tight for decades or sags in a season. This guide covers the tools, the brace work that makes a stretch hold, the full step-by-step method, how to do it solo, how to handle corners and rough ground, and the mistakes that ruin an otherwise good fence.

Tools you need

You do not need a lot of specialised gear, but a few items make the job possible and safe:

• Come-along (ratchet puller) — the workhorse for tensioning. A 2-tonne unit handles most woven-wire runs.
• Dummy board / stretcher bar — two boards bolted together that sandwich the mesh across its full height so the pull is spread over every horizontal wire, not just a few.
• A solid anchor — a braced end post, a deep-set post, or a vehicle/tractor. A properly braced post is enough; a tractor is convenient but not required.
• Fence pliers, staples or clips, a hammer or staple gun, and good gloves.
• For short runs, a heavy-duty ratchet strap can stand in for a come-along.

Build the end & corner braces first

Woven wire pulls hard — far harder than a single barbed strand — so the end assemblies must be built before you tension anything. An H-brace (two posts joined by a horizontal rail with a diagonal tension wire) or a deep, well-tamped corner post is what stops the ends from leaning inward once the fence is tight. Skipping or under-building the brace is the number-one reason a freshly stretched fence loses tension within weeks. Set corner and end posts deeper and heavier than line posts, and let concrete cure before you pull.

Step-by-step: stretching woven wire

1. Roll out the fence along the line. Unroll the woven wire on the ground beside the posts, smooth side facing the way you want, and bring one end to the first braced post.
2. Fasten the starting end. Staple or clip the mesh securely to the braced end post, top to bottom, keeping it square to the line.
3. Clamp the dummy board near the far end. Sandwich the mesh between the two boards so the clamp grips every horizontal wire across the full height. This is what lets you pull evenly instead of distorting a few wires.
4. Hook the come-along between the board and the anchor. Connect to a braced post or vehicle and take up the slack slowly, keeping the fence square.
5. Tension gradually and read the crimp curves. Quality woven wire has small crimps or "tension curves" in the horizontal wires. Pull until those curves are roughly half pulled out — never flat. Half-out leaves the spring the fence needs to absorb impact.
6. Fasten to the line posts, working back from the stretched end. Staple or clip the mesh to each post while tension holds. Drive staples at a slight angle and do not over-drive them into the wire.
7. Release the come-along and finish the end. Once posts are fastened, ease off the puller, then cut and tie off the mesh at the far braced post.

Doing it as a one-person job

You can stretch woven wire alone, and many people do. The keys are: brace the ends beforehand, use the dummy-board clamp so one come-along pulls the whole height evenly, and anchor to a deep-set post or your vehicle. Fasten to each line post as you go so you are never fighting the entire run at once, and re-set the come-along along the run for long fences. A ratchet strap works for short solo sections. Working solo is mostly about patience and good bracing — not brute strength.

Stretching around corners & on slopes

Do not try to pull a single length around a corner — terminate and brace at the corner, then start a new pull on the next leg. On rises and dips, the wire wants to lift off the ground in the dips and pull down over the rises; use extra posts (and sometimes stays or tie-downs) to hold the bottom of the mesh to the contour so animals cannot push under it. For broken or steep ground, see our guide to installing on difficult terrain.

How tight is right — and re-tensioning

The target is firm but springy: crimp curves about half out, the fence rings lightly when tapped, but still gives a little under hand pressure. A fence pulled dead-flat has no reserve and will snap wires or pull posts at the first hard impact. Check tension after the first season; minor sag can be taken up at the end assembly. If you fastened to posts under good tension and braced the ends properly, re-tensioning should be rare.

Common mistakes to avoid

• Unbraced or under-built ends — they lean and the whole fence loses tension. Build the brace first.
• Over-tensioning — pulling the crimp curves flat removes the spring and stresses everything.
• Pulling on a few wires instead of clamping the full height — this distorts the mesh permanently.
• Stapling too tight — staples should hold the wire to the post, not pinch it; the wire must be able to move slightly.
• Ignoring the bottom on uneven ground — gaps under the fence let calves and predators through. Tension the bottom and pin it to the contour.

Weighing whether to take this on yourself? Our DIY vs professional installation guide compares the time, tools and cost, and the cost & labor calculator estimates materials and posts for your run.

Tensioning tools compared

How long it takes & planning the job

For a competent solo worker, expect roughly half a day to a day per a few hundred feet once the braces are built, depending on terrain and how many posts you fasten. The braces and corners are the slow, critical part; the actual pull is quick. Plan the run so you finish stapling one stretched section before moving the come-along, and stage your wire, staples and tools along the line first so you are not walking back and forth. Building on broken ground or in heat takes longer — pace it.

Joining rolls & splicing woven wire

On long fences you will run out of one roll and need to join the next. Overlap the end of the stretched roll with the start of the new one at a post, or splice horizontal wire to horizontal wire with proper fence splices/crimp sleeves or by wrapping — wire to matching wire, keeping the vertical spacing aligned. Tie off and re-tension the new roll the same way, with its own braced anchor if the run is long. A clean splice keeps the line straight and the tension even across the join.

Safety while stretching

Wire under tension stores a lot of energy. If a clamp slips or a wire breaks, it can whip back hard — keep your body out of the line of pull, never straddle a tensioned wire, and wear eye protection and gloves. Release tension before adjusting the dummy board, and do not stand between the come-along and the anchor. Tension in stages rather than one hard heave so you can spot a slipping clamp or a leaning brace before it lets go.

Before you start: materials & prep checklist

A stretch goes smoothly when everything is staged first. Confirm you have: the right roll length for the run plus overlap for splices; corner and end posts already set, braced and cured; line posts in along the line; staples or clips and a driver; your come-along, dummy board and anchor sorted; and gloves and eye protection. Walk the line and clear brush, rocks and humps that would stop the mesh sitting to the ground. Check the fence height against your stock and mark the wire height on the end posts so the run stays level. Five minutes of prep saves an hour of re-doing a crooked or low pull.

High-tensile vs field fence stretch differently

Not all woven wire pulls the same. Standard low-carbon field fence stretches with modest force and is forgiving, but it also relaxes more over time and will sag if over-pulled. High-tensile and fixed-knot wire holds far more tension, springs back instead of staying bent, and needs stronger braces and a more careful, gradual pull — but once set it stays tight for years with little upkeep. Know which you are stretching: under-brace a high-tensile fence and you will pull your corners over; over-pull a light field fence and you will distort the mesh. See the gauge guide and fixed-knot vs hinge-joint comparison to match wire to job before you stretch.

Frequently Asked Questions